Schwartz's

History and cultural significance

Schwartz's was established in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz, who opened the Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen on the city's celebrated Main, Saint-Laurent Boulevard. It is one of the few original delicatessens remaining in Montreal, alongside Lester's Deli, Dunn's Famous Deli, and Snowdon Deli. The restaurant's longevity and consistent quality have transformed it from a simple eatery into a cultural institution and a landmark of Montreal's historic Jewish quarter. Its story is intertwined with the city's social and linguistic history, notably during the implementation of Quebec's Charter of the French Language in 1977. At that time, the restaurant's exterior sign was forcibly changed from 'Hebrew delicatessen' to 'Charcuterie Hébraïque de Montréal', and it faced regulatory challenges over the use of the term 'smoked meat'. The Office québécois de la langue française also pursued a high-profile case against the apostrophe in the establishment's sign, which ultimately remained in place. A 1987 ruling finally recognized 'smoked meat' as an official term in both of Canada's official languages, a victory for Schwartz's and other delis that argued changing the name would confuse customers.

The restaurant has weathered the closure of several historic rivals, including Bens De Luxe Delicatessen which operated from 1908 until 2006 and the Main Deli Steak House which operated from 1974 until 2023. Main Deli was Schwartz's primary business rival, located directly across the street, and the two were often compared for their patronage and their slightly different approaches to smoked meat. While both were highly rated, Schwartz's maintained a distinct edge in global fame and tourist appeal, often drawing long lineups while its competitor remained quieter. This enduring popularity, spanning nearly a century, underscores its unique position in Montreal's culinary and cultural landscape. The business itself has passed through several ownership groups since its founder, with the current owners being a partnership of the Nakis and Angélil-Dion families, who purchased it in 2012.

The smoked meat sandwich and menu

The undisputed signature dish of Schwartz's is its Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich. It consists of hand-sliced, cured, and smoked beef brisket served on rye bread with yellow mustard. Patrons can order the meat by its fat content: lean, medium, medium-fat, or fat, with medium and medium-fat being the most popular choices. The classic Schwartz's meal, as described by journalist Bill Brownstein, includes a medium-fat sandwich, french fries, a half-sour pickle, coleslaw, a pickled red pepper, and a black cherry soda. The restaurant credits the unique flavour of its smoked meat to a meticulous 10-day curing process, the high turnover ensuring freshness, and the historical buildup in its brick smokehouse. The restaurant has used an electric smoker for over 50 years because the city banned wood smoking in restaurants, but the spice blend and process remain central to its identity. Montreal writer Mordecai Richler once sardonically described the spices as a 'maddening aphrodisiac' in his novel Barney's Version.

Beyond the famous sandwich, Schwartz's is also credited with the accidental creation of Montreal steak seasoning. In the 1940s and 1950s, a broilerman named Morris 'The Shadow' Sherman began adding the deli's smoked meat pickling spices to his own rib and liver steaks. The practice became so popular that it was copied by other Montreal delis and steakhouses, evolving into the commercially available spice blend known today. The restaurant prepares its smoked meat and most other offerings in-house, a point of pride and a practice believed to contribute to its consistent quality and survival. This contrasted with competitors like Bens and Main Deli, which abandoned in-house preparation in 1992 and 2013 respectively, a cost-saving measure linked to a decline in their food quality and eventual closures.

Ownership timeline and management

The delicatessen has been owned by several distinct figures since its founding, each leaving a mark on its operations. Reuben Schwartz, the founder, ran the business from 1928 until 1971 and was described by many as a difficult character and a poor businessman. He was succeeded by Maurice Zbriger, a violinist and composer who had become a partner and later sole owner until his death in 1981. Zbriger, who took Reuben Schwartz into his home and made him 'manager for life', is credited with making the deli a great commercial success, using the profits to fund free concerts of his own music, a story documented in the National Film Board film The Concert Man. Upon Zbriger's death in 1981, ownership passed to Armande Toupin Chartrand, who had been his professional organizer and caretaker and to whom he willed the business.

In 1999, accountant Hy Diamond purchased Schwartz's, bringing a formal business background to its operation for the first time and owning it until 2012. The current ownership group, a partnership consisting of the Nakis family and the Angélil-Dion family, acquired Schwartz's in March 2012 for a reported $10 million. This partnership includes Paul Nakis, his granddaughter Anastasia, singer Celine Dion and her late husband René Angélil, and Eric and Martin Sara. Interestingly, prior to the purchase, Dion and Angélil were known to frequent the Main Deli Steak House, Schwartz's rival across the street. This ownership group has maintained the restaurant's traditional operations and resisted calls for franchising, ensuring the brand remains centred on its original location.

Business model, expansion, and retail products

Schwartz's has famously resisted significant expansion, maintaining its single, modestly sized restaurant on Saint-Laurent Boulevard. The resulting long lineups have become part of its legend, and owners have historically preferred this model, believing the historic establishment itself is a key attraction for longtime customers and tourists. This mirrors the approach of other famed Montreal delis like Bens and Main Deli, which also refused to relocate, contrasting with Dunn's, whose move proved controversial as the new location lacked the nostalgia of the original spot. In the fall of 2008, Schwartz's did open a dedicated take-out location next door to the main restaurant to help manage customer demand without altering the core dining experience.

Despite numerous proposals from restaurateurs to franchise the brand across North America, all ownership groups, including the current one, have consistently refused. The owners have stated they have no intention of franchising, a stance informed by the mixed success of rivals like Dunn's who attempted it, where shipping frozen smoked meat to franchises was seen as diluting brand quality. However, Schwartz's has engaged in limited product licensing for retail sale. Since 28 February 2013, the Schwartz's trademark has appeared on vacuum-sealed pouches of factory-made smoked meat sold initially in IGA supermarkets in Quebec and later across Canada. This mass-produced retail product allows the brand to reach a wider grocery audience without altering the core restaurant experience or its preparation methods.

Recognition, media presence, and cultural impact

Schwartz's has received significant acclaim and media attention over the decades, solidifying its place in popular culture. In a notable modern recognition, the restaurant received a 'Recommended' designation in the inaugural Quebec Michelin Guide in 2025. According to the guide, this designation signifies 'a chef using quality ingredients that are well cooked. Simply a good meal', with inspectors finding the food to be above average but not at the star level. The deli has been the subject of extensive print journalism, including a 2006 book by Montreal Gazette columnist Bill Brownstein titled 'Schwartz's Hebrew Delicatessen: The Story'. It has also inspired a theatrical production, 'Schwartz's: The Musical', and has been featured in documentary films such as 'The Concert Man' by Tony Ianzelo and 'Chez Schwartz' by Garry Beitel.

The restaurant's profile extends to international television, featuring in an episode of the Netflix show 'Somebody Feed Phil' in 2020. This consistent media portrayal, from local newspapers to global streaming platforms, reinforces its status as a symbol of Montreal. The combination of critical recognition from guides like Michelin and its pervasive presence in cultural narratives solidifies Schwartz's as more than just a restaurant but a storied piece of Canadian culinary heritage. Its long popularity and reputation have firmly established it as a cultural institution in the city, a status reflected in its thousands of tourist reviews and its enduring place in travel guides.

Place in Montreal's delicatessen scene and rivalries

Schwartz's exists within a rich and competitive history of Montreal smoked meat delicatessens, a scene that has seen several storied establishments close. For decades, it was part of a lively rivalry, most notably with the Main Deli Steak House directly across the street and with the now-closed Bens De Luxe Delicatessen. Smoked meat fans passionately debated whether Schwartz's or Bens had the superior sandwich, noting Bens served thin-sliced meat piled high while Schwartz's offered thicker cuts. Schwartz's was often characterized by its overwhelming popularity with tourists who would line up for hours, while some local patrons expressed a preference for the more traditional feel of its competitors, with one frequent Main Deli customer noting many Montrealers preferred it.

The closure of Main Deli in 2023 and Bens in 2006 has left Schwartz's as the most internationally famous survivor of that classic era. The restaurant's perseverance is attributed to several factors, including its commitment to preparing meat in-house, its unchanged historic location, and its ability to balance appeal to both tourists and a loyal local clientele. While other delis like Dunn's and Snowdon Deli remain operational, Schwartz's holds a unique position due to its global renown and its embodiment of the classic Montreal delicatessen experience. Its survival and continued success, while adapting minimally through a retail product line, demonstrate the enduring power of a focused, quality-driven culinary tradition in the face of changing trends and competition.

The dining experience and customer perceptions

The Schwartz's experience is defined by its no-frills, energetic atmosphere and the ritual of waiting for a seat at the long, communal counter. The small size of the restaurant, a deliberate choice by its owners, guarantees a constant queue that spills onto the sidewalk of Saint-Laurent Boulevard, itself becoming a local attraction. Inside, the decor is simple and functional, with walls that have witnessed decades of Montreal history, contributing to the sense of eating in a living museum of the city's culinary past. The service is famously brisk and efficient, a necessity given the volume of customers, with staff who have often worked there for many years and know the rhythm of the place intimately.

Customer perceptions of Schwartz's often hinge on the balance between its tourist magnet status and its authentic roots. While its worldwide fame makes it a must-visit attraction for visitors, some long-time Montrealers have historically favoured other delis, feeling Schwartz's could feel overly oriented toward tourists. However, its consistent quality, the in-house preparation of its smoked meat, and its victory in the language law battles have preserved its credibility as a genuine local institution. The 2025 Michelin Guide recommendation further validated its food quality for a new generation of diners. Ultimately, the restaurant manages to serve both crowds, offering tourists an unforgettable taste of Montreal and providing locals with a reliable, historic purveyor of a classic dish.

Questions about Schwartz's

What is Schwartz's most famous dish?

Schwartz's is most famous for its Montreal-style smoked meat sandwich. It is made from cured and smoked beef brisket, hand-sliced and served on rye bread with yellow mustard. Customers can order the meat by its fat content, choosing from lean, medium, medium-fat, or fat cuts, with medium and medium-fat being the most popular selections among patrons. The classic full meal includes fries, a pickle, coleslaw, a pepper, and a black cherry soda.

Did Schwartz's get a Michelin star?

In 2025, Schwartz's received a 'Recommended' designation in the first-ever Michelin Guide for Quebec. This designation, according to Michelin, signifies a restaurant where inspectors found 'quality ingredients that are well cooked. Simply a good meal'. It indicates the food was considered above average but not at the level required for a full Michelin star. The guide specifically noted the food was 'above average, but not quite at [Michelin star] level'.

Who owns Schwartz's now?

Since 2012, Schwartz's has been owned by a partnership known as the Nakis and Angélil Dion family. This group includes Paul Nakis, his granddaughter Anastasia, the late René Angélil and his wife Celine Dion, and Eric and Martin Sara. Prior to their purchase, Celine Dion and René Angélil were known to favour the Main Deli Steak House across the street. The group reportedly purchased the deli for $10 million on 5 March 2012.

What is the history of Schwartz's ownership?

Schwartz's was founded in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz, who owned it until 1971. Ownership then passed to violinist Maurice Zbriger until his death in 1981. Armand Toupin Chartrand, his caretaker, inherited it and owned it until 1999. Accountant Hy Diamond owned it from 1999 to 2012. Since 2012, it has been owned by the Nakis and Angélil Dion family partnership.

How does Schwartz's prepare its smoked meat?

Schwartz's credits its unique flavour to a mandatory 10 day meat curing time and the high turnover of its meat. The meat is smoked in a brick smoke house with over 90 years of buildup. However, for over 50 years, the deli has used an electric smoker because the city banned wood smoking in restaurants. The staff also maintains the specific spice blend for the meat.

What was Schwartz's involvement with Quebec language laws?

In 1977, the Charter of the French Language forced Schwartz's sign to change from 'Hebrew delicatessen' to 'Charcuterie Hébraïque de Montréal'. The OQLF also challenged the apostrophe in its sign. Schwartz's and other delis later fought a ruling to rename 'Smoked Meat' to 'Boeuf Mariné'. They won the appeal in 1987, making 'Smoked Meat' an official term in both of Canada's official languages.

Sources: Wikipedia and current public reporting, checked by the Novello Desserts desk. Last updated 2026-10-21.