Okanagan winery adapts to consumer demand while showcasing reds

PENTICTON — Poplar Grove Winery in Penticton, B.C., is processing its 2026 harvest with two daily shifts to meet demand for popular white wines like pinot gris.

Owner Tony Holler said pinot gris now accounts for one-third of the winery's total production and sells out every year.

"You can’t ignore consumer preferences," said Holler, who bought the winery overlooking Okanagan Lake from founders Ian Sutherland and Valerie Tait in 2007.

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He explains the quality of Poplar Grove’s red wines, specifically its ripe and complex cabernet franc, was the reason he and his wife Barb purchased the winery.

"That cabernet franc was proof that the Okanagan could grow great grapes and make great wine," he says.

After processing all the pinot gris grapes, the winemaking team will move on to chardonnay and viognier, while red varieties continue to ripen.

The winery has also added rosé and sparkling wine at the request of wine club members. "We now produce 5,000 cases of rosé," Holler explains.

Working with grapes grown in 160 acres of vineyards, mostly around Naramata with an additional 40 acres located further south in Osoyoos, Poplar Grove has built on a solid reputation for its red wines.

Its syrah, cabernet and merlot wines, including its flagship red blend, Legacy, continue to attract critical and commercial acclaim.

To demonstrate the aging potential of these expressive wines, they started re-releasing bottles after 10 years.

Next month, a new release of Library Collection wines from 2016 will be offered to wine club members, with a wider release planned for next year.

Holler also manages the winery's restaurant, which he took over in October, 2019, after seven years of working with a partner.

While many tourist-based businesses in the Okanagan only operate from April to October, Holler sees an opportunity to cater to guests during the so-called "shoulder season."

The restaurant closes in early December and reopens in March.

"You’re not going to build a business working seasonally," he says. "I think we’re a good example of what happens when you stay open."

During a busy lunch service last Saturday, Holler kept an eye on what the restaurant’s guests were drinking.

On that sunny October afternoon with a slight nip in the air, staff served glasses of pinot gris, chardonnay and merlot to the various tables, while Holler discussed the continuing evolution of the Okanagan wine industry.

With files from The Globe and Mail